“As morning progresses the calm bursts into a volley of gunfire and canyons in the background. The military have barged their way into this territory and the FANO Rebels go all guns blazing across the horizons. But Mass our guide assures us we won’t be affected and as odd as it may sound, the tantalising calm of the dazzling nature grapples us and the sound of booming ammunition from far doesn’t seem to faze us!” Sonia Shah. 

Ethiopia

The Narrative of Sonia Shah

Yet another CIVIL WAR has burst forth in the North. One war terminates with the Tigray region and their people after almost 2 years,  and another comes to throttle the country in a flash between the government and the Amhara people, who have become the target of ethnic cleansing by the Oromo government and their military”

Panic sets in a few months back as I learn all modes of transport to Northern Ethiopia have been clipped. A close friend has already booked her ticket and I’m on the verge of purchasing my flight a few weeks before the meeting date! I announce the unfortunate turn around of events to her, seeing no end to this for quite some time , but she keeps a cool head under fire! 

Yet another CIVIL WAR has burst forth in the North. One war terminates with the Tigray region and their people after almost 2 years,  and another comes to throttle the country in a flash between the government and the Amhara people, who have become the target of ethnic cleansing by the Oromo government and their military

Fortunately, as the weeks pass by, while the civil war prolongs, flights and transport resume in the North. Internet connection has been cut off by the government to cease communication between their opposing ethnic group as FANO Rebels representing the Amhara people lurk around these areas.

Local contacts from the affected regions assure me that we have nothing to worry about and so off we took the plunge into debilitating regions. My friend Smita has been cautioned by various friends and family members not to go forth, but fortunately she trusts me and my research and isn’t deterred by everyone else’ s paranoia!

In one of the conflict towns, Lalibella, the Meskal festival, a Christian Orthodox celebration takes off in full swing. Holy priests and deacons congregate to light up a ceremonial bonfire to commemorate the occasion, but there is an air of dejection in the town. An emptiness ghosts the town, which hadn’t been the case back in January during my first visit here.

The once lively streets are vacant. Locals have either fled the town to escape any form of violence from the military or are simply overwhelmed with fear and only leave their houses when necessary.

In addition, getting caught up in the crossfire between the FANO Rebels and the military deters more human presence on the roads.

A curfew of 7 pm has been set in place and military check points appear with many soldiers matching across the streets.

As we venture on the outskirts of Lalibella, we head to Bugna village, a place unknown to foreigners and what an honour to have visited it 7 months ago and being the first foreigner to have stepped on these grounds and meet the mayor. Sadly, I learn that the government had removed him from his position as his roots are of the Amhara people and he now undertakes whatever work he can get his hands on as well as serve as a representative to the church to hear out any problems facing community members.

 

 

As we gallivant around the village, visiting the local market, we see several FANO Rebels patrolling the area. The thought of coming face to face with Rebels is usually daunting. Murder, torture, kidnappings and rape come to mind… but instead we are broached with beaming smiles and a rare and unconventional welcome into this territory that they’ve been peppering their forces throughout in this Amahara region.

Unexpectedly we are invited to their simple office in the village and initially I’m crammed with an odd feeling for several minutes as I accept this invitation.

We sit attentively for almost an hour as we listen to their fight for ‘justice.’

The commander and his representatives answer the multitude of questions fermenting inside of me.  

As we set off on a brief hike to the top of majestic hills buzzing with colourful floral patches, we indulge the surroundings. Mass, our local guide, treats us to some raw organic honey combs in the vicinity before we set camp in the charming settings. The following morning, we delight in the surroundings as the sun rises…

As morning progresses the calm bursts into a volley of gunfire and canyons in the background. The military have barged their way into this territory and the FANO Rebels go all guns blazing across the horizons. But Mass our guide assures us we won’t be affected and as odd as it may sound the tantalising calm of the dazzling nature grapples us and the sound of booming ammunition from far doesn’t seem to faze us! Soon as the days roll along, we receive updates from the locals of the battle.

As we continue to rest on various hilltops throughout the village, we quickly forget the sounds of battle as locals welcome us and one elderly man brings us home-made yoghurt in a calabash for us to enjoy.

Soon he invites us to his humble home , less than a kilometre away and his wife welcomes us with food and a brief tour around the wooden hives they keep in their backyard where their livestock graze.

 

Once more the intensity between the two fighting groups recapitulates, chocking the mid afternoon spell of calm. A local bus ceases its journey as the military prevents them from furthering. The sound of gunshots deters the bus driver wanting to continue, should he and his passengers get caught up in between, hence prompting him to turn back. We wonder if we would encounter the same issues getting back the following day, but luckily the chaos is shredded after a day and we safely return to Lalibella

We cross into other conflicting territories, hiking along the 3rd highest peak for several days just outside Lalibella and much further out where the Simien mountains lie. Despite warnings from several locals not to enter here and cancel our hike due to the Fano Rebel activity, we continue. More FANO Rebels come into sight, but this time more heavily armed. From grenades and snippers as well as various other forms of weapons adorning their belts and waists!

We continue treading along the vast plains of more floral and fauna with a couple of monasteries dotting the plush green mountainous surroundings, unharmed.

Finally, we leave the paradoxical Amhara region and step into other terrains. Immense dryness and heat in the Afar region where nomads set camp in desolate areas around hard black volcanic lava landscapes enduring the harshness of their surroundings.

While further away, rich lime green and yellow hot springs bubble away with shades of brown, turquoise and orange smudging the lava rocks.

In between in Gondar Town, while I stay put for several weeks to recover a wrist fracture before hiking to the Simien mountains, a few gunshots spray the night, but fortunately the firing lasts for a couple of minutes then ceases.

I casually visit the points of interest in town, ancient King palaces and Castles and further away coming across the Awra Amba community, where men and women have complete equality on every level of society, from household chores, ploughing the field and general work to keep the community thriving. Everyone gets their hands dirty in the fields and the harvests accumulate profits for the community to enjoy!